Somaliland is a self-declared state, internationally recognised as an autonomous region of Somalia.
Somaliland has its own currency, military, government and flag.
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Currently, most of Somalia is unsafe to visit, and all government websites will advise against travelling here.
Somaliland is different, and visitors’ safety is taken seriously.
As two female travellers, we had a good experience in Somaliland. Here is some information about travel in Hargeisa and some recommendations on where to stay, where to eat and what to expect.
Travel in Hargeisa Somaliland – Everything you need to know
Do you need a visa for Somaliland?
You must obtain a visa before entering Somaliland, whether you will be arriving overland via the border or flying into Hargeisa.
If you travel in Ethiopia, you can apply for your Somaliland visa in Addis Ababa.
How to get to Somaliland?
Some people will book a cheap flight to Hargeisa and start their visit from the airport. A taxi from the airport should cost USD $15-20.
We travelled overland from Harar in Ethiopia to enter Somaliland. Read more about doing this journey.
In Harar, we stayed at Harari Traditional House, which we highly recommend. The location is good, the rooms are clean and comfortable, and the young girl there speaks good English.
The breakfast here is fantastic, too: fresh roti bread with jam/honey and tea and coffee.
Book a room at Harari Traditional House.
If you’d prefer a slightly more modern accommodation, the Winta Hotel is a good option.
Local Guides in Harar
Below are the numbers of two local guides in Harar. It’s worth hiring one of them to show you around the Old Town, etc.
(+251) 256 662 211
(+251) 921 872 867
Where to stay in Hargeisa?
Our driver from the minivan we caught here from the border dropped us off at our hotel in Hargeisa, The Oriental Hotel.
This hotel is in a good location downtown. Single rooms are $15, and double rooms are $30. We bargained him down to $25 per night.
Breakfast is included. The hotel is very old, and the rooms are quite tired and basic. The twin beds were good but very hard. The Wi-Fi was in and out and quite unreliable.
The food was okay at the restaurant, and the two men who run the reception, Mohammed and Ahmed, were very nice and spoke good English. However, the service in the restaurant is terrible.
You can pay in USD as everything is priced in dollars (because the rates on Somaliland shillings keep changing).
Most main meals, including soup and salad, are $5, but make sure you eat before 2 p.m. Nothing happens or no hot food is served between 2 and 5 p.m. Goat, fish, and rice are very good here.
What to wear in Hargeisa Somaliland?
Female travellers must be fully covered. This means a scarf to cover your hair, long loose trousers or skirt and long sleeves.
Somali tea is very good. You can drink this in the hotel for $1 per pot. Coffee is ok, it’s also $1. You can buy big bottles of water here for $1 or in some small shops on the street they are 5000 Somaliland shillings or about 0.50c. Ensure that the caps are sealed correctly.
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Money-exchange in Somaliland
The rates keep fluctuating in Somaliland. You will see money changers lining the streets with huge stacks of cash in front of them. The rate when I visited was USD $1 = 10,000 shillings. This made it easy to work out.
The denominations are mostly 1000 notes, with some 5000 notes. Don’t change too much; just change as you need it, as nobody wants to change this currency back to any hard currency once you’ve left Somaliland.
Tips to keep safe in Hargeisa
For female travellers, it’s important to be covered correctly when you leave the hotel and explore the city. Nothing happens during the hours of 2 – 5 pm as it’s too hot in Hargeisa.
The city comes alive in the evening; however, it’s not recommended to walk around the city after dark, especially for women travellers.
It’s worth reading about our 12 essential tips for safe travel.
If you would like to go out in the evening, I’d recommend asking the guys in reception to arrange a taxi or a driver to take you to/from the place you’d like to go.
Although people are friendly in Hargeisa, you will be approached by beggars, people, and kids asking for money.
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Where to Eat in Hargeisa Somaliland
Oriental Hotel – The local food is good here, but the service is not so good.
Yemeni Cafeteria
Great food and good prices. Try local dishes such as foul (beans dip) or shakshuka (scrambled egg with onions, tomato, and chili). All dishes are served with good bread. They also make fresh juices for $1.
Women sit upstairs (separate from the men downstairs), and the balcony offers a good view of the city. The manager speaks great English. No hot food is served here between 2 and 5 p.m. This was my favourite place to eat in town.
Barbera Café – Italian Coffee House.
Located inside the Deero Mall, this café serves great coffee and cakes.
Espresso or cappuccino costs $2.50-3.00, but it’s well worth it. Delicious cakes cost around $3.50, and they’re very good. It’s a nice café to sit and chill and take a break from Hargeisa’s dusty, hot streets.
Cadaani Café – Roast chicken and chips. A busy place full of men. Go up to the window and order food to take away.
Another area worth mentioning if you’d like to eat at some different restaurants is Chebeysa. Here, you can try Ethiopian, Pakistani, and Yemeni food, amongst others. You may need a taxi to get here, as the walk is a little far from the downtown area where we stayed.
What to Do in Hargeisa
There isn’t too much to do in the city but wander around. The markets are bustling and if you walk through here you’ll no doubt get lots of attention from locals wondering what you’re doing there.
They don’t see too many visitors in this part of the world. There is a cultural centre open to see some African Art and artifacts and a war memorial statue that is quite interesting.
The Central Market is worth visiting – just make sure you’re dressed correctly.
There are options for day trips from Hargeisa, however, foreigners need to arrange for armed guards to travel with you and also a reliable taxi with driver/guide. Hotels can arrange this for you, however, it can be expensive if there is just one or two of you travelling.
Popular Day Trips from Hargeisa Somaliland
Laas Geel – To see some very cool rock paintings.
Berbera – A fascinating coastal city worth exploring if you can.
Leaving Hargeisa
A taxi to Hargeisa Airport costs approximately USD 15. It’s a good idea to leave a little earlier in case you get caught in traffic on the way out of town.
Travel Tips for Ethiopia
We have more helpful travel guides and tips for Ethiopia—this is a diverse country!
When planning your trip, we recommend spending two days in Lalibela. Our complete guide has everything you need to know; it’s a fascinating place.
We highly recommend visiting the Simien Mountains, on a day trip from Gondor. Here’s everything you need to know.
We wrote this comprehensive post to help you learn more about Ethiopian cuisine.
Ethiopia features on our list of the 10 best food countries in Africa, and it even made it into our top 10 best countries for food lovers
Our Food Map of Africa is interesting because it explains what people eat in all 54 nations. If you’re wondering what people eat for breakfast in Africa, check out this post about the most popular African breakfast foods.
If you’re keen on an adventure, here’s how to take local transport from Ethiopia to Somaliland. If this interests you, you will need a visa. You can apply for your visa for Somaliland in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia.
We recommend joining a food tour in Addis Ababa. It’s a great way to taste the cuisine and learn about Ethiopian culture. Read about our food tour experience in Addis Ababa to know what to expect.
Check out our best-ever travel tips compiled from more than twenty years of experience.
Travel Planning Resources
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📸 Day Tours & Trips: GetYourGuide & Viator are the only two platforms you need.
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2 Comments. Leave new
Rach, what an amazing women you are.
Never heard of anyone visiting that many countries in my life. I personally believe that for every country you visit, it shapes your life and has some soft of impact on your life. Guess you had so much experience theres nobody like you in the world. Thank you for visiting my home country Somaliland.
Great article!